The premium models all have been proved in an FDM printer (Prusa i3, Ender type machines) but should be able to print them in an SLA, the biggest challenge is to have an SLA printer that could accommodate a full scale model to be able to house the led light bulbs. I wouldn't advise to print the lamps in parts, because the seams would be too visible an distracting when turning the lamp on.
No, first you need to contact us to extend you a commercial license. Depending on the number of prints you want to sell the the license could cost as low as 5% of each print sold with a fix minimum price. Feel free to contact us for more information.
Each printer is different, and each material requires different settings, take the time to modify and tune your slicing profile. A retraction tower is very important to avoid stringing, soy always tune your profile accordingly.
If you need to build up experience, just go with the normal white PLA, natural color PLA is even more forgiving, and gives a Warm shade to the lights.
It'll depend on what filament was used to print it, and the exposure of the lamp to certain elements, like humidity. None of the lamps were designed for exterior use, have that in mind. If you print with PLA, you want to avoid any UV exposure and high temps in general. PETG is a bit more resilient, but still suffers in humid environments.
If very lightly humid rag should suffice, first separating the shade from the base in the case for the table lamps, if itĀ“s a hanging piece you want to first disassembly the piece, and if there's a bit of dust left over you could use a can of compressed air, at a safe distance to avoid breaking any intricated fragile details. Don't ever use anything wet near the socket please, and always be careful around electricity
The layer height is the important one in that case, 0.16 mm is a good one to start. The prints are orientated in the best way to achieve a successful lamp.